Christmas in November

Friday, 16 November 2007

The title isn’t that much of a stretch, but that’s what today felt like. The bulk of our belongings arrived from the States, securely packed in the container that we had packed over 7 weeks ago in Oregon.

I was disappointed that the movers didn’t have to utilize the automatic lift that they had brought. Most of our stuff was in light boxes, eliminating the need to use the cool conveyor/lift that is commonly used in Holland. Here’s a picture of one in use:

Nor was the “old school” hook & pulley system used:

I see both of these methods being used on almost a daily basis.

Every box brought a new surprise, since we had almost no idea what was in each box. A carton marked “papers” might have easily been towels. I’m not sure why, but that’s just how it was.

Note to self: The next time you move overseas, cut the amount of everything you bring in half. That will be more than enough to get you through.

One of the highlights for me was seeing my very new bike (only one ride in Oregon on her wheels) arrive in perfect shape. I can’t wait to hit the Dutch countryside this weekend for a cold, but very, very welcomed ride. Same for a new pair of running shoes that I sent over.

Other “surprise” goodies: Boxes of Ziploc bags, the kids’ toys, my guitar, our towels, our rugs (that really help the place feel more…homey), and my desk and computer. But the biggest highlight is our big, comfortable bed and mattress. Goodbye backache? I hope so!

...

On a cultural note, this past Wednesday, I took advantage of a fantastic part of Amsterdam life: Every Wednesday at 12:30pm, the Concertgebouw (concert hall, just a 2-minute bike ride from our house) gives a free, half-hour concert during symphony season. Anyone who shows up is treated to a "practice session" of whomever is performing in the next few evenings. This week, the famous conductor/composer/performer Andre Previn directed the Amsterdam Philharmonic and guest violinist (and Previn's ex-wife), Anne-Sophie Muller. It was remarkable, to say the least. Hearing the orchestra perform Tchaikovsky's Violin Concerto in D was...breathtaking. It's very special to listen and watch as the conductor stops the orchestra to give direction. A sort of "behind the scenes" look at the world of a classic music performance.

This weekend: A bike ride and a relaxing few days at home.

Bountiful Beers in Bruges…Absent ATM’s in Antwerp

Friday—Sunday, 9-11 November 2007

It was high time to get out of Amsterdam and start enjoying the continent a bit, so we booked a hotel and hit the road for a weekend in Belgium.

Ah, Belgium. The land of chocolates, beer, and wonderful bicycle racing. I especially was excited to return to a city I had not seen for 17 years, the exquisite “medieval” city of Bruges, located just 2 ½ hours from A’dam. The bridges, canals, and architecture alone are worth the trip, and with every turn on the town’s narrow streets, you feel as if you’ve been magically transported to an ancient kingdom. The cobblestone streets are lined with classic European cafes, shops, and people from all around the world who have traveled to the city to experience what the continent might have looked like hundreds of years ago (minus the cars, scooters, and designer fashion stores).

We set out on Friday with the VW packed well. The kids had been prepped a bit for the trip, but they didn’t need much prodding to get out the door, as they really do have an inherent sense of adventure.

Nearing Bruges, we got a bit hungry, so we typed “food” into the GPS for directions to a lunch spot. The next 30 minutes were remarkable, as we drove on the tiniest, winding, picturesque country lanes (at times, no more than a path through a farm field) to a small town, punctuated by a towering church steeple. The restaurant was a bit fancy for our tastes, but the small pub next door and its friendly owner proved just the ticket for our hungry stomachs. For the kids: Pancake meal #1.

Bruges didn’t disappoint. We ate wonderful food, visited the Chocolate Museum, wandered around the city, and took a horse-drawn carriage ride. Friday evening’s meal began with a trip to another pancake place (pancake meal #2), and finished with a visit to a second restaurant so mom and dad could dine.

A trip to the coast (to the rather posh town of Knokke) and a visit to a local pancake house (pancake meal #3) was Saturday’s highlight for the kids. Every meal was exceptional, reflecting Belgium’s top-notch cuisine and culinary training. The pancake house, in somewhat of a local convention, featured a HUGE adjoining outdoor playground area. Hooray!

Saturday evening’s meal was just off the center of the Bruges main square, and featured…what else? Pancake meal #4 for the kids, and yet another delicious offering for Stacey and I.

Any lover of the world’s best beers knows that Belgium is simply nirvana. Over 400 beers are brewed in the country, and I sampled my share during the weekend. After Stacey and the kids had passed out on Saturday night, I walked down the street to a tavern where I was presented with a two-inch thick beer menu. Oh, the choices in life! I was rewarded with a taste of three of Belgium’s finest: A tart lambic, a traditional Flemish brown, and a wonderful Abbey-style dubel.

Cole has been going through some slight behavior challenges lately, but nothing that any other kid hasn’t experienced. Pushing boundaries, challenging authority…all stuff that grandparents and friends might smile about, but stuff that can drive parents a bit crazy. We certainly experienced a bit of that this weekend. The testing will no doubt continue—one of the joys of parenthood.

After a trip to a local chocolatier for some goodies to bring back to A’dam and one last short walk around the center of Bruges, we headed out and pointed the car toward Antwerp. Someone had recommended a kid-friendly place called “Pirate Adventureland,” so we thought we would treat the kids to this indoor play park.

Bad move.

We’ve discovered that in this cashless society, not everyone accepts debit and/or credit cards. If we’re in Holland, it’s usually no problem to pay via debit card, but cross the border to Belgium and it’s a different story. So, blowing through cash is pretty easy. By the time we passed through Pirateland’s turnstiles, I was down to my last few Euros, and the kids were ready for some (overpriced, fried) food. I set out with vague directions on how to find an ATM machine.

Apparently, Belgians (or at least, Antwerpians) don’t buy into the concept that ATM machines should be located on every other city block. I asked, in my worst Flemish (an odd combination of Dutch & French) and best English where to find one. The fourth person I asked politely gave me directions to a location "that I think is only 6.3 blocks from here, on the right, after a laundrymat, next to a trinket store, and close to a pancake house."

Somehow, I knew that pancakes would be involved again.

A winding brisk walk through Antwerp’s gorgeous Grote Markt (central square) brought me to the promised land, where to my delight, I found an indoor ATM kiosk.

Which was locked.

I tried in vain to push the door open, cast a spell to magically turn the lock, and swear in my worst Flemish, but nothing worked...until I went around the corner and found the door that was open. My ATM search had ended. The fifth attempt to navigate the machine were successful, and I headed back to Piratevillage with cash in hand, ready to satisfy the young’uns’ appetites.

At least they didn’t want pancakes.

Tomorrow: Back to school (hooray!); sign up for a mobile phone plan; make Christmas vacation arrangements.

Floating Cakes

If it involves maple syrup, our kids are interested in it. So when we told them that we were taking a Pancake Boat Cruise in Amsterdam's harbor, they screamed with delight.

Once on the actual boat, they had a blast. This two-decked small cruise deck features a 1-hour tour (without a guide blabbering on the mic), and all the (Dutch) pancakes you can eat. Beer costs extra, and nothing goes with Dutch pancakes quite like a small glass of beer. Choose from any of the three varieties of pancakes: plain, apple, or "spek." That's "bacon" for those of you a bit slow to pick up Dutch. Yes, bacon pancakes.

Once you've selected your pancake, the fun begins. First, a photo of what I'll call the "Dutch food pyramid":












Note the abundance of sugar products, sugar byproducts, and sugar-filled products: M&M's, chocolate sprinkles, multi-colored sugar sprinkles, chocolate chips, white sugar, brown sugar, raw sugar, powdered sugar, granulated sugar, jam, honey, and other stuff.

Step 1: Spread wet stuff on pancake, i.e. syrup, jam, etc. Step 2: Sprinkle sugar stuff on pancake (this is where our kids excelled...in Maya's case, heaping no less than 5 different sweet things on her pancakes). Step 3: Roll it up. Step 4: Consume. Step 5: Hope that representatives of the Netherlands Association for Diabetes Control are not on the same boat, ready to handcuff and arrest you for a gross violation of insulin abuse and illegal blood sugar spiking.

We enjoyed the pancakes and the short cruise, and surprisingly, the kids' sugar high wasn't too bad, and the rest of the day went pretty well. The captain of the boat was a nice guy...the boat is just one of his jobs--he's also organizing a huge jazz festival in Amsterdam that will take place next June, and he expects over 25,000 people to attend.

I've been getting behind on posting many of the photos that we've taken, so here are a bunch for you to enjoy:




The kids before their first day at the British School of Amsterdam.

At Waterloopleine Markt:

Down and Out on Halloween

Day #9: Wednesday, 31 October 2007

As soon as I opened my eyes this morning, I knew it was going to be a long day. I’ve been zapped with some kind of flu-like illness. I feel better tonight, so perhaps it will pass.

It was tough on the kids today as I could barely function. They somehow managed to keep themselves busy inside all day with playtime. We managed a very short, very slow walk to the corner market late in the afternoon.

Halloween? Non-existent here, although some expats arrange a trick-or-treat outing for their kids. We arrived a bit late, however, to take advantage of the planning. That’s alright…the kids didn’t miss it.

Photo: The "essence" of Amsterdam?

The past few days have been full, with trips to various markets and sights. I took the kids to the Albert Cuypstrat Markt on Monday…they loved the various “funny” things for sale and got pretty wide-eyed whenever we passed fish or produce stands. A piece of fresh fruit goes a long way in appeasing a kid…at least in our case.

Yesterday was a lovely day, and the kids and I set out for the Waterloopleine Markt, a very old flea-market-style place near the central part of the city. Cole bought a cheap magnifying glass, and it has hardly left his hand in two days. He loves examining everything up close. If you need a trinket or an antique pair of Dutch ice skates, Waterloopleine seems like the place to go.

I’ve been practicing my Dutch daily, and I must say that I’m proud of my progress after just one week. My online lessons certainly help, as does the cursory knowledge of German, a language quite similar to Dutch. I’ve been able to conduct a number of transactions completely in Dutch, so I’m well on my way to my self-imposed 3 month schedule of being comfortable with the language. Silly, perhaps, but I like to be able to speak the local tongue. And what better opportunity than now?

ANOTHER trip to Ikea (last night) was very fruitful, as we ordered the majority of our furniture--beds, tables, and chairs. A next day delivery sounded great at the time, but little did I know that I’d be knocked out cold when they were scheduled to show up. The delivery time was not fun for me. Now it’s just a matter of assembling 20 boxes of furniture…fun!

As promised, here are a few pics:

Kids on the plane trip from the US.

Cole with a picture of a primate friend at the monkey park.

Maya looks intently at a water vortex machine.

My new ride. Stacey's is next to mine.

Tomorrow: Go get the parking permit; buy Maya’s new bike; take the kids for a bike ride.

Monkey See...Monkey Do

Day #5: Saturday, 27 October 2007

We all enjoyed another long morning of sleep to recharge the batteries this morning, and didn’t get rolling until fairly late in the a.m. I took the downtime to get out of the house early and make my first trip to the Albert Cuypstraat Maarkt, an open-air market that runs Monday through Saturday.

Every manner of goods you can imagine is available here, minus automobiles and, oh I don’t know, purple hair dye. No, wait…I saw an entire stall selling just hair dye representing every color of the PMS book. So, no automobiles (but I’m sure someone there would sell you one if you pressed hard enough).

Need Sensodyne toothpaste? Lots of that! Same goes for fish heads, eels, yellow kiwi fruit, incense, luggage, bike locks, tools, leather jackets, razor blades, antique Asian furniture, stockings, spices, sheet music, perfume, thong underwear, and many other useful items. Need some fresh herring? There are at least 3 stalls dedicated to the Dutch delicacy. I managed to stick it to the guys at my local hardware store, who had the nerve to charge almost 10 Euro for a roll of duct tape, finding a roll at the Maarkt for just 2.50! A screaming deal! Note to self: Consider importing cheap duct tape and undercutting the market.

After my triumphant return from the Maarkt, it was off with the family to the (infamous?) Apenheul Primate Park (www.apenheul.nl), about an hour drive east of A’dam. Our new GPS unit came in very handy as we negotiated the Dutch highways and back roads on our way to what promised to be a very fun afternoon for us all. And the place was fun…mostly. But the kids’ cumulative fatigue was starting to manifest itself in crankiness, so it was good to see all of the gorillas and monkeys and get the heck out of there. (Another) trip to Ikea on the way home didn’t help much, either. When kids are tired, furniture shopping is not the antidote. But tasty Swedish meatballs sure help!

Tomorrow: Stacey’s last day before the job starts; cycling around the city.

My New Ride

Day #4: Friday, 26 October 2007

Every good Dutchman needs a good bike to get from point A to point B.

Today, Stacey and I visited one of the many local bike shops. Ringo, the proprietor of the Jan Van Wijk shop, located just 2 blocks from our house, was happy to assist us. Since it was the guy’s 47^th birthday, he seemed in especially good spirits. I selected a nice used model—something with a little character, and with a few miles on its wheels. Mijn vrouw opted for a newer, comfortable model that will serve her well upon our return to the states. Photos to come later. My “serious” (?) road bike and Cole’s mean machine arrive in a few weeks with our shipment, making nice complements to the stable. Maya will get her new bike next week.

The kids enjoyed their first full day of school, just in time to transition to their first full week of vacation (next week). At this rate, the truant officer might know our house number by heart.

Another governmental meeting awaited us this morning as we visited the Amsterdam town hall to register as citizens. This, in order to apply for our parking permit. Unfortunately, we won’t be “in the (computer) system” until mid-next week, thereby requiring us to pay for parking until next Thursday or so.

A hotel three blocks from our house is actually named “The Gresham Memphis Hotel.” I don’t even know where to begin with the jokes. Perhaps the person who named the joint noticed the similarities of the two American burgs and decided to combine the best of both worlds.

The wine (“wijn”) shop located just steps from our place carries an exceptional selection of French, Italian, Spanish, and South American wines. “Ria” (short for Maria) was helpful with her recommendations for both a dinner wine and what I like to call my “everyday drinking wine” (don’t draw any rash conclusions, please). As I commented that a 2004 Tempranillo (she offered a taste) needed another half year to rest before being really ready to drink, the shop owner overheard and came running, emphatically saying that this is exactly what he has been telling other customers. I think that Ria, the owner, and myself will get along just fine.

An odd sport observation: Field hockey is enjoying a wave of popularity that is similar to what’s going on in the U.S. with lacrosse. Field hockey sticks are in the hands of all the kids or sticking out of their backpacks as they cycle to and fro. Our relocation assistant du jour even commented that she participates in an adult league in her town, and that leagues are popular for adults of all ages.

Tomorrow: The start of our first weekend in A’dam.

A Real Dutchman…

Day #3: Thursday, 25 October 2007

A real Dutchman understands the legendary bureaucracy of the Dutch government. Today, we experienced it firsthand.

After a half day of school for the kids, we set off (with a representative from our relocation company) to The Hague, a beautiful city to the west of A’dam and the home to much of the country’s and the E.U.’s government offices.

A process that should have been very simple—take our 4 passports, record their numbers, and insert simple stamp to confirm/allow/recognize temporary residency—turned into a 2-hour affair. We watched in wonder as data was entered, double and triple-checked, and recorded by the nice clerk. Next to her sat her boss (?), who double checked and confirmed all of her pen and keystrokes. Mostly, he chatted in Dutch with our helper about topics unknown to us. While I’m sure that similar processes are muddled down elsewhere in the world, the Dutch almost take pride in their layers of bureaucracy. “When a process works smoothly in this country,” said our assistant Michel, “it is changed immediately.”

I climbed back aboard the workout train today (finally) to shake off many days of physical inactivity. Stacey said she was jealous of my hour run tonight, but I think it’s best if she gets another day of rest in after her marathon last Sunday. By the way, her 3:49 at the Nike San Francisco Women’s Marathon placed her 140^th overall.

A trip to the bank this morning helped me sort out a number of questions. In Holland, everything is done via debit card, with currency a distant second and credit cards nearly non-existent. Other Dutch expats and former expats reading this are certainly nodding their heads in agreement…it’s a system that takes a while to get accustomed to.

Some notes from the grocery store trip this evening: If you love smoked/honey/sweetened slice turkey and can't live without it, it's probably best that you don't move to the Netherlands. Same goes for cooking spray of any sort, low-fat microwavable popcorn, and small ziploc bags. Not that I need any of these…I’m just sayin’.

Cole was so tired tonight that he actually fell asleep in the bathtub. That’s a first.

Tomorrow: Visit the city registration office and obtain a parking permit.

Our First Full Day as Dutchies

Day #2: Wednesday, 24 October 2007

Sleep was the seductive drug of the day, as the kids didn’t wake until after 11am—their method of shaking off the jet lag.

After our “brunch,” a heating repair guy showed up to start thawing out the joint. His efforts were successful, and the apartment is now quite comfortable. But the morning chill gave me a chance to test my firebuilding skills (they’re in excellent shape, thanks) in the fireplace.

We decided to head out on our first adventure today. With car seats in hand, we loaded the kids onto the tram and headed out to pick up Stacey’s car. One tram stop is just 2 blocks from our house—so incredibly convenient. The tram was packed, and the kids had a blast seeing their first real sights of A’dam. Soon enough we arrived at Central Station and hopped on the train to Bussum, located to the east. From the Bussum train station, we took a bus to Huizen, then a short walk to where the car was located.

The VW “Bora” (same as the U.S. “Jetta”) will be a temporary ride until Stacey gets an Audi A3 in a few weeks. Until then, she’ll have her last chance to enjoy automatic transmission on the VW before transitioning to a 5-speed.

Then, it was off to Ikea for our first foray into furniture shopping. After a meal in the store’s cafeteria, time was getting kind of tight, so we just picked up a few misc. household items. The big pieces of furniture will be selected later when we have more time.

It was a great day for our first as Netherlanders.

Tomorrow: Kids get their first taste of school; visit the bank; a trip to The Hague for citizenship registration & social security numbers.

Onthaal aan Nederland (“Welcome to the Netherlands”)

Day #1: Tuesday, 23 October 2007

The reality of moving to Europe finally hit me as we approached the Portland airport, enjoying our last few minutes of the beautiful Pacific Northwest October weather. Waiting for our Lufthansa flight, it occurred to me that we would, in 10 short hours, be in our new home.

The flight went well, but the kids didn’t sleep a wink, despite our best efforts. They busied themselves with reading and other games, and remained fairly happy throughout the journey.

I’ve read that the measure of a man can be determined in part by how he reacts to lost luggage. Of course, I had my opportunity to test my patience since all of our ELEVEN pieces of luggage (including 9 enormous suitcases) didn’t make the entire trip to Amsterdam. Fortunately, the bag was found quickly and delivered to us later in the day.

All of our luggage was quickly loaded into a van taxi and we arrived at our apartment around 1pm. The kids love the new place, and really, what’s not to love? We live in a great neighborhood with plenty of conveniences within steps of our front door. Grocery stores and various shops fill the neighborhood. The Rijksmuseum is only 6 or 7 blocks away. And Amsterdam’s beautiful Vondelpark is a 2-minute walk.

By the time 6pm rolled around, the lack of sleep finally caught up with the kids. Maya nearly fell asleep in the middle of eating an apple. Cole passed out watching a movie. It was an easy transition to bed for all of us. Oddly, they both awoke around 3am and had to be helped back to bed.

Something is a bit wrong with the heating system and the place feels like a meat locker. Hopefully we can sort this out tomorrow. But everything else is pretty comfortable, thanks to a truck that was waiting for us upon our arrival, filled with an entire package comprised of a temporary set of furniture, bedding, kitchen equipment, and miscellaneous stuff. This will all be moved out in a few weeks once we have the chance to buy our own furnishings and appliances. The arrival of everything we shipped from Portland will complete the picture.

Some of the little things already are making me chuckle. For example, how many trips to the grocery store will it take before I can break the 40-year habit of always having a plentiful, free supply of grocery bags at my disposal? Bags here are not free, so if you don’t have your own, you have to purchase one, and remember to do so before you’ve paid for all of your groceries.

A great first day for our new adventure!

Tomorrow: Sleep in, more grocery shopping, and other miscellaneous errands.

Onward

The past 3 weeks have been a frenzied blur, but filled with satisfaction, warm memories, and the feeling of accomplishment.

Thanks so much to everyone (who have numbered in the dozens) of you who have sent congratulatory notes and kind emails. I'm proud of what I've achieved at Badwater, but feel grossly undeserving of the kudos. People like Lisa Bliss and Valmir Nunez, to say nothing of the other incredible athletes who finished the race, are the ones deserving of the plaudits.

And to those of you who have supported Soles4Souls, I sincerely appreciate your generosity.

Physically, my recovery has been...fair. Fine, actually. I've completed five runs and one bike ride. The joints are a bit creaky, and my left achilles tendon is tight. The feet are looking pretty good. Otherwise, I'm fine, and chomping at the bit of fitness. Know thyself, and I know that I take a bit of time to recover...perhaps more than the next person. But I'm fine with that.

So many questions of "What's next?" It's a question, at least for my athletic self, that remains to be answered. Life is full right now, and wrapping my head around my next race or athletic goal seems trivial at the present. Suffice to say that I'll choose a goal worthy of achieving!

A nod to a number of friends: Nick ("Chip") Collins finished the Leadville Trail 100 in an impressive manner on Sunday. Ronda "Rooster" Sundermeier also notched a finish (5th overall woman!!) at Leadville, filling in the third (of four) 100-mile footraces she needs in order to be recognized as a finisher of the "Grand Slam" of ultramarathoning. Wasatch is next for Ronda. And dear friend Lisa Smith-Batchen has announced her next (AMAZING) goal of running across the United States next summer! WOW!

I just watched the trailer for a movie about Badwater that is due to be released soon. This quote of the "Badwater runner," by an unknown person of UK origin stuck out for me. It says so much, and concludes this post (and my Badwater experience) in a wonderful way:

"Until you’ve actually thought, “Could I do it?” you’d never, ever entertain the possibility that you couldn’t.

And then you see people doing it, quite comfortably, and you say, “Well they’re super-people.” They’re not.

Maybe they are super-people, but only because they have explored for themselves how it can be done. Not “it can’t be done.”

Gratefully,

Greg
www.giveshoes.org

DONE

The journey is complete...but the journey goes on.

I can't thank you all enough for your incredible support that you sent via email, voicemail, and otherwise. Without the support of my friends and family, Badwater just wouldn't have been the same.

At the end of the race, I did in fact finish in 13th place in a time of 32 hours, 51 minutes, 20 seconds. I had a pre-race goal of 35 hours, so I'm very, very pleased with my finishing time.

It was incredibly tough...the heat, the distance, the climbs, the descents...everything that this race throws at you is challenging. But when everything got tough (which would basically be the entire race), I just focused on moving forward without stopping and concentrated on the present.

In other words, I didn't worry about the past or the future, just on what I could do at any given moment. And that usually boiled down to putting one foot in front of the other, whether I was running or walking.

I took no breaks longer than about 12 minutes. I can recall two10-minute planned breaks for eating (at miles 42 and 59), one 12-minute break for foot "surgery" near the end at mile 128 (?), one 2-minute break at mile 74 for "sleep," an unplanned 4-minute elevate-my-feet-break around mile 105, a 5-minute check-the-blisters break near mile 115, and a 2-minute break near mile 110 to ice my feet down. That adds up to about 45 minutes out of the 32 hours when I was not moving forward on the course. Otherwise, I was running or walking.

Photos are all over the place and still rolling in. Here are a few, in no particular order:

A great set of photos from my friend Glenn, who was crewing for the women's champ Lisa Bliss. I'm in a bunch of the shots: http://www.pbase.com/gtach/bliss07

http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showCK03/pages/DSC01487.html --About an hour after the start

http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showCK03/pages/DSC01524.html --Paul Curran waiting for me (wearing cowboy hat) with a cold bottle of water

http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showCK04/pages/DSC01560.html --With crew & pacer Larisa

http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showAB05/pages/IMG_4641.html --somewhere around mile 30 with Paul

http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showPoosa01/pages/DSCF0151.html --Near mile 122 in Lone Pine

http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showPoosa01/pages/DSCF0152.html --Near mile 122 in Lone Pine

Finish line shots:

http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showCK10/pages/DSC02180.html
http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showCK10/pages/DSC02174.html
http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showCK10/pages/DSC02181.html
http://www.badwater.com/2007web/shows/2007showCK10/pages/DSC02183.html

The level of athletic talent is sky high at this race. I wasn't worthy of carrying most of these folks' dirty underwear, much less be allowed to line up next to them at the starting line. I just ran my own race and focused on enjoying the entire experience.

And enjoy I did! I had as much fun as I could, considering the tough conditions and the blisters I suffered late in the race. But even through that shooting pain that I felt with every footstep, the race was still amazing in so many ways.

So much credit goes to my crew: Tracy Fawns, Larisa Manuel, and Paul Curran are three of the most selfless individuals I've ever met. They were a picture of efficiency. Our number one rule was HAVE FUN. From the looks on their faces, they appeared to be having a great time. We had absolutely zero problems...every food handoff, clothes change, bottle prep, etc. was seamless. I didn't have to worry a bit about the details. All I had to do was move forward.

So much more to say and write...but no time now as I'm preparing for a short family vacation. No running...just some good poolside lounging, writing, and reading. Stay tuned for many more details.

Finally, please visit www.giveshoes.org to find out how you can support the mission of Soles4Souls. What an INCREDIBLE organization!

The buckle (sub-48 hours) and the finisher's medal:

With gratitude…

Greg

2 Days

2 Days until the race...and the last pre-event blog post.

Nervousness/anxiousness has been replaced by frantic packing, repacking, unpacking, and repacking. The "chassis" as my friend Jason referred to my body, is feeling good, confirmed with a couple of strides this morning for the Oregonian photographer. Yesterday's interview with the paper's sports reporter went well, and reminded me that a good interviewer should always be well-prepared before the sit-down. Mr. Schmidt had done his homework.

Tomorrow, it's wheels up at 10:50am, landing in Sin City around 4:30pm, then picking up dry ice, food, and other supplies.

I need IT tech support over here, NOW, to fix my printer, which is on the fritz. Not good when I have many pages to print out before the trip.

There's not much else to say, other than one word: Thanks. Of course, that six-letter word can't possibly do justice to the gratitude I feel to everyone who has sent me a note of "good luck." Those who I've run with, eaten with, lived with. Those who have given me advice, tips, opinions on how best to approach this animal that is Badwater. My heart overflows. "Love" isn't a word that I use loosely, but that's what I'm feeling right now.

There's an old saying I haven't used in a while, but it means a lot to me: Remember to love the ones you love. There's some power in that, when you really consider every word.

Thanks.

Greg

3 Days

3 days...it's getting very real now.

Did the interview w/ KATU (Portland CBS affiliate) yesterday. The interview went very well, conducted by two really nice guys--Craig (the station's newest sports reporter) and Mike, a 31-year veteran of camera work. Their questions didn't just focus on the "who's the nut job running through the desert" angle. They had insightful inquiries about my preparation, the "why?" question, and other interesting things. I just fear that (especially with editing) that I'll come off as being a bit too serious or aloof in the piece. I didn't feel like I had my usual lighthearted attitude turned on when Craig was asking me questions. And the biggest fear I have is that Soles4Souls will be under-represented or not mentioned. Broadcast airs Sunday night, 7/22, at 5:30 and/or 6:30 pm Pacific time.

The Oregonian interview is today, and that's a sit-down at a coffee shop. Of course, with my recent weaning from caffeine, we could just as well conduct it on the back porch of a butcher shop. And I'm not sure why I just typed that. I think I'm really, really losing my mind now.

Did my last medium-distance run last night with neighbor Jim, who makes the perfect running companion. He listens (errr....puts up with) my boring stories and is amenable to just about any weird route. You can't overestimate the value of good neighbors, that's for sure.

Back to finishing up the week's work and packing for the journey.

I thank you again for your support and plead with you to visit my friends at Soles4Souls to see how you can make a difference in our world. If you're wondering how to best support my effort at Badwater, visit Soles4Souls! Send a pair (or ten!) of new or gently used adult or children's shoes, or better yet, make a cash donation to help Soles4Souls make a huge impact on the lives of people who need our help.

4 Days

4 Days...and the packing continues in earnest today.

More rain for Portland, which is now definitely a distraction. I'm earnestly trying to stay focused on the heat, which is much easier when the sun is shining. The gray skies make it palpably more challenging to transplant my mind to the desert temperatures.

A run last night confirmed that I am indeed a bit taper nutty. I felt aggressive...almost angry...at nothing in particular. I'm interpreting that as a sign of physical strength, perhaps even a surge of testosterone that is laying in wait. And while a race such as Badwater is as far removed from the Y-chromosome-fueled sprints of the track as can be, I still like the feeling of physical power and strength--my body's way of letting me know that it's rested and ready.

A minor annoyance is the sauna at my health club (and by the way, why is it called a "health" club? Many of the customers are anything but the picture of "health." "Fitness club" or "workout facility" or "exercise den" might be more appropriate monikers). But I digress. The sauna has been on the fritz, notoriously inconsistent in its ability to maintain and hold a high temperature. Sometimes it will dip as low as 145 degrees F, while other times it will cook at 175. Various opinions from my fellow sweaters point to the probable culprit: The exercise den customers who pour entire bottles of water over the rocks of this dry sauna heating unit. The water has fried the elements/sensors/internal workings of the heater, and the little R2D2 isn't able to process commands from its woefully overloaded thermostat. We need to get Han Solo's crack mechanics on top of this issue, stat.

Speaking of the sauna, one of the benefits I have in cooking each day is the mini-Berlitz language lesson that I passively participate in. One day it will be Korean, the next, Spanish, and just the other day, Arabic. Yesterday, as one guy was leaving the sauna, he yelled in French to a friend who was walking by. English is only occasionally spoken. It's fun to listen to the different tongues, trying to pick up a word or phrase here or there. The world is small and getting smaller, no?

Today is the interview w/ the local t.v. station. Should be fun.

I thank you again for your support and plead with you to visit my friends at Soles4Souls to see how you can make a difference in our world. If you're wondering how to best support my effort at Badwater, visit Soles4Souls! Send a pair (or ten!) of new or gently used adult or children's shoes, or better yet, make a cash donation to help Soles4Souls make a huge impact on the lives of people who need our help.

5 Days

5 days...and the preparations continue.

A rainstorm hit Portland overnight. I almost wrote "freak" rainstorm, but in the Pacific Northwest, we're serious about our rain. It can happen at any time, on any day. So no rain in the PNW is really "freakish," is it? In the past as I've prepared for long-distance events through torrential PNW rains, I've joked that if it rains on race day, I'm going to win. While there's not much of a chance of that happening anytime this millennium, I'm glad to say that the rains have been rare during the past 3 months of heavy-duty training. Still, it's nice to get a bit of a change in the weather, especially during my taper time--when my training mileage is low and my thoughts are focused on packing and getting to the starting line.

The kitchen remodel that I've referred to continues. My hands and forearms have recovered from last week's demolition job, and now the task is in the hands of the professionals. Door and wall framing commenced yesterday, with electrical and plumbing soon to follow. Distraction or diversion? I'm not sure yet. Ask me after the race.

Haircut in one hour. I wrestled with the idea of going to Badwater with my usual longer-length hair, but decided that I'll take every advantage when it comes to cooling my body. So short hair it is. And as a bonus, I get to visit with my coiffeur of choice, my cousin Natasha.

I assembled my foot-care kit yesterday, which might be suitable for use in a M.A.S.H. unit. I'm submitting the content list to the Pentagon later today for approval. I'll keep you posted on their response.

It sounds a bit strange, but due to the intense heat radiating off the roads of Death Valley, many/most of the competitors at Badwater wear long pants during the daylight hours. I struggled with finding the right pants...you know, lightweight, breathable, and WHITE. A solution came by way of my friends Jay and Lisa Smith-Batchen (Lisa's blog is a MUST read), who suggested I try Patagonia's Capilene 1 "long underwear" pants. When it comes to anything related to ultrarunning, if it comes from Jay and Lisa, I'll at LEAST give it strong consideration. In this instance, I took their advice and acquired a pair. A test run (in the middle of the night, on a back road, with camo face paint used to conceal my identity) proved that the pants are just the ticket. Thanks, guys!

For what it's worth, or "FWIW" for the under-30 set, Lisa is making another attempt at a Badwater DOUBLE. That's right--she will be doing two consecutive crossings of the 135-mile course--once on her own and once during the race itself. Astounding, any way you look at it. But those of you who know Lisa know that this is a woman who has achieved many remarkable things in her life, and something like the Badwater double is easily within her grasp. How can I be so sure? She did it LAST YEAR!

I thank you again for your support and plead with you to visit my friends at Soles4Souls to see how you can make a difference in our world. If you're wondering how to best support my effort at Badwater, visit Soles4Souls! Send a pair (or ten!) of new or gently used adult or children's shoes, or better yet, make a cash donation to help Soles4Souls make a huge impact on the lives of people who need our help.

6 Days

6 Days until my dance with the destiny of the desert.

Details are falling nicely into place. I'm thankful that I didn't leave too much planning until the last minute. I put my newfound sewing machine (thanks, Nancy) skills to the test last night and fashioned a desert hat. I had an OR desert hat, but wanted white. I simply added a neck/face shield that I cut from an old Coolmax singlet. I think it came out pretty well.

I've noticed that my body is craving a lot of rest right now, which seems a bit odd for me since I'm smack dab in the middle of my taper. It might be related to our kitchen remodel (did two hard days labor of demolition on Thursday and Friday)...a training regimen that I would not highly endorse for endurance athletes--that is, unless you want some really good heat training.

And speaking of heat training, mine is progressing well. Nightly visits to the sauna (160 to 175 degrees) have done wonders for my temperature regulation. I've taken to wearing sweatshirts on most days when short-sleeve t-shirts are de rigueur. My complaints to Mrs. Desert Fish about the meat cooler environment that we've been living in have been heeded...she reminded me yesterday that she turned off the A/C at night to give me some relief. Thank heavens--I thought that icicles were going to start forming on the ceilings of our house.

I've had many questions about the race itself, so I'd direct you all again to the links on the right side of this page, particularly THIS ONE, which gives a number of bullet points about Badwater.

Media hits and interest are continuing to rise. In addition to the CBS news piece that I'll film this week, the Oregonian has informed me of their intent to run a feature story on my race prep. Anything to help Soles4Souls!

I don't plan on making any blog entries once I depart on Saturday, 7/21. I could cart the laptop with me, but I'd rather focus on preparing my mind and body for the task at hand, and I fear that the computer would be an unnecessary distraction. Look for my final pre-race entry on Friday, 7/20.

Finally, a nod to a friend who is making a valiant attempt at something that makes Badwater seem a bit whimpy: Ronda Sundermeier is one of a handful of ultrarunners who each summer shoot for what is called the "Grand Slam" of ultrarunning. That is, successfully finishing four of the most legendary 100-mile races in the United States: The Western States 100, Vermont 100, Leadville 100, and Wasatch 100. To finish any ONE of these four is a remarkable achievement. To finish any two of them in one year would be something to tell the grandkids. But to complete the "slam" is another thing altogether. The sheer logistics alone are daunting enough, to say nothing of what a turned ankle, missed time cutoff, or succumbing to altitude sickness can do to your best laid plans.

Perhaps 10 or 15 talented and incredibly strong-willed individuals will attempt and complete the task each year, and knowing Ronda, I'm more than confident she can do it. Read about her training and racing HERE, and please join me in wishing her success.

2 Weeks

Two weeks to the Badwater Ultramarathon.

The lists aren't overwhelming me quite yet, something I can credit the "little steps" that I've taken to prepare over the past few months. As with any event where I'm a rookie, considering exactly what to pack can be a slight bit intimidating. How many coolers? What type of clothing? How much ice? What about food? But at "the end of the day" (or insert any other overused cliche of your choice), it's really just about running, walking, having fun, and respecting the elements...right?

If that is truly what it's all about, then I'm as ready as I'll ever be. The mileage is in the bank. The heat training has progressed really well. And I've managed to calm my mind and wrap my head around this incredible journey that sits before me now. On paper, it's 135 miles through scorching heat and relentless hills. But in my heart, it's something that no map or race report could ever hope to explain. Like that elusive family vacation where dad yells to the complainers in the backseat, "Kids, getting there is half the fun!" I think that I've experienced at least half of the fun.

But the "task" of the race is not nearly half over. I fully expect that halfway point to come, odd as it might sound, somewhere around the 100-mile mark of the course. You know...that point in every race--regardless of the distance--where you've passed the physical halfway point, but the real race is just beginning. At that point, it's not a race with other humans. It's a race with the demons within--the doubts, the laziness, the inner-couch potato.

So, onward I go, preparing the little details as best I can. My confidence has been buoyed by the recent heat wave that we're enjoying. Today's 100+ degree temps felt very, very nice to this sauna boy. I wore three layers of long sleeve shirts, a black cap, and a small backpack for good measure on my 10.5-mile jaunt. Other than a mid-run "bonk," I felt very energized by the end of the run.

And the sauna sessions--mostly around 40-45 minutes @ 165-170 degrees--continue. Add to this the unorthodox training of a kitchen remodel demolition (not highly recommended for the elite athletes out there), and it's been pretty smooth sailing. I've cut the caffeine intake significantly and throttled back on the cold adult beverages somewhat. My diet is pretty good. Hell, I'll even get a haircut sometime in the next week. Crazy, I know.

On the media front, I got some good news late last week. The local Portland CBS affiliate has lined up a day to shoot a story about my preparation for the race. Hopefully, we can focus the message not on the "loony runner guy" angle, but rather on the mission of Soles4Souls.

Here's a juicy race-prep detail for you to chew on: My normal shoe size is 12.5, and I'll start the race in that size. But the best laid plans of mice and men...During the race, the feet can swell significantly, resulting in a painful cramming of the feet into shoes that are now too small. Therefore, the other day I bought a pair of size 14 shoes as insurance. Guess I should keep the receipt, eh?

Thanks for your continued support, prayers, songs, well-wishes, good vibes, acts of random kindness, karmic balancing, unsolicited calf massages, hearty handshakes, pats on the back, toasts of health and cool breezes, and hearty Hi-Oh Silvers, Away!

Stares

Ye reap what ye sow.

Weeks ago, when I started the madness of going out on training runs overdressed, I thought that I saw a few people looking at me with odd expressions on their faces. Now I know that they were, in fact, staring at a certifiable madman in motion.

This was confirmed both yesterday and today as the temperatures crested the 90 degree mark. For some of you who reside in warmer climes, these digits on the thermometer don't mean a whole lot to you. But for us Oregonians, temperatures north of ninety are elusive, typically only falling on a few precious days in July and August. And any time they do, as the A/C's get cranked up and residents plow headfirst into summer mode (read: bad tank tops and all manner of inappropriate skimpy clothing), a guy running around the neighborhood in tights, long sleeve shirts, and a black hat must simply spell trouble.

As I passed a long line of cars waiting at a stoplight this afternoon, I saw the wide-eyed wonder and incredulity on their faces as they stared, wondering why in the world this idiot was dressed so...well, inappropriately. The absurdity of it all made me smile broadly despite the intense heat and sweat that stung my eyes. I laughed at them as much as I laughed at myself. After all, if I can't laugh at myself, what's the point? If it ain't fun, said some wise sage of yore, why do it? And somehow...despite the huge loads of laundry, despite all of that sweat stinging my eyes, and despite the heat that I'm about to face in just over 2 weeks, it's all a LOT of fun.

Good news today from my p.r. efforts, done primarily to benefit Soles4Souls awareness and fundraising: The local CBS television affiliate wants to film me and do a story next week about Badwater and my efforts on behalf of Soles4Souls. I'm very excited about that, believing that the words of P.T. Barnum ("All publicity is good publicity") will be prophetic. Thanks, as always, for your support.

Update

With just three weeks to race day, logistic planning now enters the picture in a big way. But the minutia of getting ready for an event such as Badwater still takes a back seat to physical preparation.

Heat training continues with a vengeance. I'm up to 35 minutes or so with each sauna (175 degrees) session. Daily weekday runs are the glue that holds everything together, and my long weekend runs are going very well. Finally, finally, finally, the Pacific Northwest is preparing for some hot temperatures. Other than our brethren in Alaska, methinks that the Badwater runners from Washington and Oregon are at a distinct disadvantage when it comes to the heat, given that most of the country has been blessed with plenty of high temps. But I'm not losing any sleep over those details, preferring instead to entertain the delusion that the milder temperatures are assisting the general quality of my running. Or something like that.

The logistic details: Flights. Hotel rooms. Rental cars. GEAR LISTS. Special apparel suitable for 125 desert heat. Food lists. Footwear concerns. I need to hire a full-time assistant just to help me out with these details! Thank heavens for my crew and their willingness to assist wherever needed.

July 4th looms. For me, it doesn't matter whether or not the corn is knee high, if I have enough (read: ANY) fireworks/firecrackers/smoke bombs, or if my potato salad is seasoned appropriately. For me, the day is a reminder of the freedoms that I enjoy, including my right to speak as freely as I do. The last patriot? I don't know, although I doubt it. What's the saying? I love my country, but.... I'll let you fill in the blanks. I promised myself that I'd steer clear of political issues in these missives, so let those be my final words on the topic.

Fame?

As a sports & fitness magazine editor, I'm pretty careful when it comes to endorsing various nutritional and sports supplementation products. Over the years, I've tried just about every powder, pill, drink formulation, and "energy" bar. Some of them, frankly speaking, would make a maggot gag...despite their claims of health and performance.

In 1999 or so, I met a guy that would change how I looked at refueling and sports nutrition. Steve Born, a veteran ultracyclist and accomplished athlete, turned me on to the products manufactured by E-Caps (the company now known as Hammer Nutrition). It was an eye-opening experience. In addition to field testing their products personally in numerous feats of endurance (RAAM, Furnace Creek 508, etc.), Steve had up-close-and-personal crewing experience for RAAM riders and ultrarunners. His front row seat to the trials, tribulations, and epic barfing sessions of the athletes under his wing served as valuable input to the scientists back in the Hammer laboratories. The results of much of the company's research led to a product called Perpetuem, which I now use as the cornerstone as the fueling strategy in my long workouts and races.

Like any athlete, I like to use what really works well. That's why when Hammer asked me to write a short testimonial, I didn't hesitate to put a few short sentences down on paper. You can see the company's ad and my testimonial on PAGE 4 of the 2007 "race bible" for the Badwater Ultramarathon.

Read more on my nutritional strategy HERE.